Whether your pattern is for a dress, a pair of pants, a shirt or whatever you’ll need to determine the sleeve pattern. Sleeve width can vary from wide to fitted with plenty of sewing room for tailoring the sleeve if desired. There are also several styles of sleeves when it comes to dresses and tops. From sleeveless to cap, cuffed, 3/4 and full, choose the one that best suits your pattern work needs.
Sleeve Pattern For Dress
Draft Sleeve pattern- for a plain sleeve
A plain sleeve is the basic pattern for sleeves that is used as a base for making patterns of all sleeves mentioned here.
You can make this pattern straight on the cloth or on a paper. It is better to make it in a paper so that next time you make it you have less trouble.
Cut the sleeve pieces 20 inches wide and your desired sleeve length plus 1 1/2 inches long .
Keep the sleeve pieces Right sides together. Fold them and start the marking. Use chalk to mark the pattern
The line A –C is along the folded line of the cloth. The measurement from A to C is Sleeve length + 1 ½ inch
C-D 1/2 of arm round where you want the sleeve to end
E – B & A – B Mark as per table given below ( this is based on your bust measurement )
Join D- E in a straight line and add 1/2 inch as seam allowance
Mark F as mid point of B-E
Make a straight line from F to G ; Join this line to line A-C in a right angle
Divide the line G- F line into 3 equal parts. Mark the points 1 & 2
Front Sleeve line
Join from A – E so that the line passes through point 1 -This is the front sleeve line
Back sleeve line
From A mark ½-1 inches to point 3 . From point 3 join the line to E through the point 2
Remember that both the sleeves (front sleeve pattern and back sleeve pattern), are marked on the folded sleeve piece on one side. First cut through all the layers of cloth the back sleeve line from I – A. Open the full sleeve and now cut through one half portion through the front sleeve line.
When fully opened and cut the sleeve will look like this ready to be sewn to your dress
Cap sleeve
A very attractive sleeve which will just cover the top of your arms. Make the markings for a plain sleeve on a paper. Then draw a line straight from E – C
Give a slight curve to the line. Add 1/2 inch seam allowance . Cut it out.
You can sew a similar cap sleeve whih is gathered if you follow the pattern in the tutorial to sew a lace yoke top
Circular Sleeve
A – B Sleeve length
C- B = A-B
Square lines from B – C and C-H & H-F
B- F = C-H
Mark D inside 2 inches from point F .
Mark D- A – 1/8 of Bust measurement + 2.5 inches
Mark Point I such that A- I is same as A- B = A-I
Draw a CIRCULAR arch from B to F passing over I .
Mark a point 4 from D 1/2 inches inside
From point 4 mark a point 3 inside 1 1/2 inches
From point 3 draw a straight line to Point E ( which is 1/2 inches from A to the inside on line A-F)
Find midpoint of line 3 -E . mark this point as 2 . Mark 1 one inch inside from point 2
Make a curved line through D-3-1-E Pattern for the full circular sleeve is ready. A little disfficult but totally worth sleeve pattern.
Skirted Umbrella Frill Sleeves
This refers to the sleeve with a pretty skirt. . Usually this skirt is found near the elbow. It is a popular sleeve with costumes. Make sleeves as per the plain sleeves pattern
To make the skirt
Fold the cloth into 4 layers ; then fold it diagonally to make 8 layers : see above diagram.
0-1 : 1/6th of the bottom of the sleeve where the skirt will be attached.
Mark 0-2 same as 0-1 . Make a curved shape joining 1-2
Mark points 4 & 3 such that 2-4 & 1-3 are the length you need for the skirt plus 3/4 inches seam allowance
Cut out and join to the sleeve.
This kind of sleeves are also known by the name – flute sleeves. To know more details on how to make the sleeves checkout the tutorial to make a boxy top with flute sleeves
Lace inserted sleeve
An attractive addition of cloth/ lace etc is given in the centre seam of the sleeve; Checkout this tutorial for lace insertion – different ways
For drafting this sleeve first make the pattern on paper ; draw a parallel line to A – C 1/4 inches outside ; this is the new seam line.
If you want a curve like in the above diagram when drafting mark 1 inch inside diagonally to K .
draw a curved line along D-K-I . cut it out and insert the lace along the cut line.
Overlap Sleeve (Tulip sleeve)
Make the pattern for a plain sleeve on paper –
Mark a point K 2 1/2 inches away from A
From C mark a point L 1 inch diagonally as shown in diagram
Cut double pattern pieces ie 4 pieces for this sleeve ; 2 for each sleeve .
Puff Sleeves
Checkout the post 3 types of Puff sleeves patterns and how to sew them for detailed tutorial on sewing the puff sleeves
Bangle sleeves
This is a full long sleeve with gathers near the wrist, like the one you find near the ankle of chudidhars. The measurements are to be taken for a far tighter sleeve than for the plain sleeves.
For the gathers : – the line A – C ( full desired length of sleeve) is extended to about 5 – 6 inches till point 4 ; like wise for line E-D is extended the same 5-6 inches till point 5
5 – 6 – Here a slit of 4 inches is made so that this tight sleeve pattern will get your hands in.
Flared sleeves
This is a flared sleeve at the bottom edge ( but a plain sleeve at the top). Make the pattern of a plain sleeve on paper.
Keep this pattern on another paper. Square down from B – E
Mark the bottom edge C – D
Mark 4-5 inches outside to point 2
From this point mark up 1 1/2 inches up to point 4 . Make a curved line joining D to 4
Join 4 – E
Bell sleeve
This is somewhat similar to the flared sleeve mentioned above. Checkout the tutorial for flared dress for more details on how to draft this sleeve
